Victory 44

The first time Drew and I visited Victory 44 in north Minneapolis, we had one main takeaway: Devils on Horseback are amazing and our lives had been missing something important.

Great news! The Devils on Horseback are 1) still on the menu and 2) still incredible.

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They are served in a pool of bleu cheese “foam,” which deflated a bit on us. Honestly though, any iteration of a bleu cheese sauce is OK in my book and this is no exception.

Throwing caution to the wind, we also ordered the homey sounding Ham and Pickle Tots.

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Crispy tots served on a creamy aioli with dill gel and ham powder.

Ham powder?

The last time we visited Victory 44 we got the much buzzed about bacon fries, which are topped with bacon powder. I found them a little lacking in bacon flavor. The ham powder also didn’t read especially ham forward to me, but it did remind me strongly of parmesan cheese.

The dill gel was much more successful, imparting a gentle, sweet pickle flavor. Drew and I practically licked the plate.

I asked our server her thoughts on the fried chicken and she looked me dead in the eye and said, “It comes with mac and cheese.” Sold!

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Not pictured is a little squeeze bottle of spicy honey gastrique. It sounded so good in theory, but ultimately it was more sweet than spicy, and didn’t stand up to the seasoning of the chicken.

The chicken was everything a person wants in fried chicken. It was crispy, salty, herbaceous, and most importantly, moist. I found it especially impressive since the chicken was boneless, which is very easy to dry out.

The mac and cheese, as my server said, was mac and cheese. It was appropriately creamy and cheesey. I’m definitely not mad about it, but it didn’t necessarily stand on its own. As a foil to the chicken, though, it was just right.

Overall, this trip to Victory 44 really impressed me. I am walking away praising far more than just the small plates.

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